The KS Ghost fade guide: Know what to ask for.

Most of a good haircut is said before the clippers come out. Choose a fade and how short it starts, and see exactly where the blend sits.

Fade height
Shortest point
A head in profile showing the selected fadeThe hair on top stays long; on the sides and back the hair is shortest at the bottom and blends into full length higher up. The selected fade height moves where that blend sits.

Taper

Length stays on the sides; only the sideburns and the neckline are taken down. Conservative, and it grows out gracefully.

Ask for “A taper at the sideburns and neckline, a little off the sides.”

Low fade

Starts just above the ear and follows the hairline around the back. A clean edge that stays subtle.

Ask for “A low fade, blended into the length on the sides.”

Mid fade

Starts level with the middle of the ear and blends up to the temple. The balance between contrast and coverage.

Ask for “A mid fade, blended up to the temple.”

High fade

Starts at the top of the ear and runs up to where the head curves into the top. The most contrast with the length on top.

Ask for “A high fade, up to the parietal ridge.”

Skin Down to the skin at the bottom, with a foil shaver or razor.

Start at #0 Clippers with no guard at the bottom: a shadow, not skin.

Start at #1 A #1 guard at the bottom (about 3 mm): the softest start.

Clipper guards

The numbers, decoded.

The guard sets how much hair the clippers leave. Lengths vary a little from brand to brand.

Clipper guard numbers and the length of hair they leave
GuardLeavesIn inches
#0about 1 mmno guard
#13 mm⅛ in
#26 mm¼ in
#310 mm⅜ in
#413 mm½ in

Barbershop words

Taper or fade?

A barber in black gloves finishing a skin fade at the back of the head with a comb and trimmer.
Taper
Hair gets gradually shorter towards the sideburns and the neckline, but never shows skin above them. The most conservative option.
Fade
Hair goes from very short (or skin) at the bottom to longer higher up, with no visible step between lengths. Named for where it starts: low, mid or high.
Skin fade
Also called a bald fade: the bottom of the fade is taken down to the skin with a foil shaver or razor before blending up.
Blend
The transition between two lengths. A clean blend has no line where one guard ends and the next begins.
Line-up
Also called an edge-up or shape-up: crisp edges at the front hairline, temples, sideburns and beard, cut with a trimmer or razor.
Guard
The comb that clips onto the clippers and sets the length. Higher numbers leave more hair.

Before you sit down

Four things to tell your barber.

  1. 01

    How high

    Taper, low, mid or high: where the shortest part stops and the blend begins.

  2. 02

    How short at the bottom

    Skin, a #0 shadow, or a softer #1.

  3. 03

    What’s on top

    Scissors or clippers, and how much length to take off. Bring a photo if you have one.

  4. 04

    The edges

    A natural neckline, or a sharp line-up at the front and the neck.

Book

Know what you want? Book it.

Call the shop to book, or send a request online and the shop will get back to you.

Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m.–8 p.m.

Opening hours
Monday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
Tuesday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
Wednesday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
Thursday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
Friday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
Saturday9 a.m.–8 p.m.
SundayClosed

184 Wilson Ave, Unit 2, Toronto
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